The River Wye
Morning Mist rising from the River Wye
Four hundred million years ago, the rivers of north and mid-Wales drained towards the south-east leaving deposits of sandstone and limestone, later to be followed by the entire area being flooded by the rising sea level at the thawing of the Ice Age. Two million years later the early River Wye began to flow over these deposits, cuttings its way through the rocks it gradually eroded as the sea level fell, to form today's large sweeping loops. The course of the Wye developed slowly, creating a sloping sandstone valley with steep limestone outcrops and spectacular cliffs giving superb vantage points.
The origins of the River Wye are deep within the hills of Wales at Plynlimon, a heather-clad mountain dominating central Wales. From its birthplace, it gently meanders some 248km (154 miles) through five British counties in both England and Wales.
The journey starts as a slow, trickling stream in the Welsh hillside, crossing the border into England at Hay-on-Wye to flow through the Herefordshire plains, then crossing the border returning to Wales at Monmouth to head southwards to re-join its sister river, the River Severn, in the Severn Estuary at Chepstow. Throughout its length, it winds and curves its way through undulating rural countryside, through an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and Site of Special Scientific Interest. At Symonds Yat, it sweeps into a large horse-shoe bend where it can be seen from both directions from atop Yat Rock, yet this 6km mile loop makes only 366 metres progress.
Over the centuries, the Wye has served a variety or purposes ranging from the transportation of freight to the conveyance of passengers via the "Wye Tour", through to its current leisure use by canoeists and anglers. It has long been famed as one of Britain's greatest salmon rivers and, as early as 1308, Edward II is noted to have requisitioned 3,000 dried salmon for his expedition against the Scots - suggesting the Wye Salmon was of a higher quality than the Scottish salmon!
In the hey-day of its industrial past, the Wye was a means of conveying goods. Barges laden with cargoes of coal and iron would be transported from the Forest of Dean upstream to Ross and Hay. Then they would make their return journeys loaded with cider from Hereford, corn and oak bark and would head downstream to Chepstow and Bristol, making the Lower Wye Valley area between Monmouth and Chepstow the busiest section of the route.
However, there have long been navigational difficulties along the length of the river due to its varying depths, shallow wharves and weirs and a series of locks were required in order for it to be navigable throughout the year. Today, there are remains of 6 weirs alone on just the short stretch between the Wyndcliff and Tintern - some bearing names reflecting the former industry and characteristics of their area: Stowe Weir, Plum Weir, and Ash Weir. Even in the 14th century, many boats were unable to travel beyond Monmouth and goods had to be unloaded onto carts to continue their journeys by squelchy mud track. The only boats able to overcome some of the constraints of the low river levels were the widely-used flat-bottomed barges, loaded up to 40 tonnes and towed along the towpaths by horses or men at the rate of 15 men to 25 tonnes.
Even today the Wye continues to experience varying levels with its second largest tidal range in the world -which can see its level rise or fall by 12m (36’) at the whim of the Great British climate.
he Wye benefits from several tributary streams and brooks, some of which were sufficiently fast-flowing to power watermills attracting early industry to the area. However, following the opening of the Hereford to Gloucester Canal in the mid-19th century, the river route declined in favour of the canal which offered a much more convenient, and less fraught, means of transporting goods. The Wye diversified and developed a new role in the transport of passengers enjoying the delights and scenery of the "Wye Tour". Later, this too fell into redundant decline with the opening of the Wye Valley Railway.
Today the river Wye is one of the few British rivers to flow from source to sea without passing through any industrial areas pumping out pollution into its clear waters. It continues to enjoy a flow from mountains to valley, through rich countryside, deep gorges, through the quaint villages where it provided their livelihood and supplied a natural power-source, down to the sea. Although there are several other attractive rivers in Britain, the Wye remains unsurpassed and none can match its cleanliness or stunning countryside and scenery.
Today the Wye plays host mostly to canoeists who, presently, enjoy rights of Free Navigation along its length (although this may change if registration is introduced) and face exhilarating challenges of shooting the Rapids at Symonds Yat.
Rowing is another popular river-based activity and there are several rowing clubs based upon the river banks, eg at Glasbury, Hereford and Ross-on-Wye.
The river also hosts the annual River Wye Raft Race (usually Spring Bank Holiday weekend) from Hay-on-Wye to Chepstow over three days, Ross Regatta (usually Late Summer Bank Holiday), and the Ladies Raft Race. Leisurely river cruises operate from Symonds Yat East and West through the gorge and village.
However, care is taken to avoid over-commercialising leisure use of the river to ensure wildlife is protected and preserved, ensure the water stays clear and unpolluted. The Wye is one of the few rivers you can enjoy looking down into and can mirror a reflection. In the upper reaches, it is often possible to look into the clear waters to see the riverbed itself – something few rivers can proclaim!
Typical Wye Valley river scenery is of a shimmering river winding through its wooded valley, the river playing host to a family of majestic swans and the occasional pair of brightly-coloured canoes gliding along the surface. Flanking each side, the grassy banks and densely wooded hills of summer provide fulfillment to a few carefully camouflaged anglers while couples and families stroll leisurely along the riverside footpaths, following in the footsteps of more serious backpackers. Admittedly, this may read like a description of a cliché-filled picture postcard, but it does actually reflect the true beauty of the area.
The River Wye's flood-meadows provide a good hunting ground for expert anglers - the local grey herons, particularly in the autumn when salmon move upstream and mature eels head downstream back to the sea. At this time of year, the Wye Valley area is fringed with trees of almost every shade of rich red and gold in the autumn. The ecological value of the Wye Valley and its ancient woodland has also been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest in order to safeguard the conservation of the area.
